Transparent epoxy resin is a very versatile product and is a very fun way to express your creativity in any hobby or professional environment.

If you have difficulty calculating the mixing ratio between component A and component B you can use our automatic AB ratio calculation tool.

If you need to calculate the amount of resin to be cast you can use our mass calculation tool.

Unlike what you might think, this product is not very easy to use and can be very demanding! If you have used resin and have had unsatisfactory results, you are not the first and you will not be the last either.

These are some of the problems that most commonly arise when using the resin and some of the possible remedies that can be applied:

1) Dark areas or spots on embedded objects

Sometimes when we insert objects inside the resin we subsequently see dark halos or stains appear that give the wet effect.

This problem usually occurs when the object that is embedded within the resin is porous or paper material. The occurrence of this event derives from the fact that materials of this type tend to absorb liquid substances.

SOLUTION:

Pre-seal any object that is paper or porous. The ways to do this are different, for example you can laminate with a special film and laminating machine or you can spray a transparent sealant spray. If you don't want to spend too much money or you want a quick system that is immediately at hand, you can opt for home systems with decent results:

- Transparent Scotch: apply common transparent adhesive above and below the object to be incorporated, as if it were a plasticization, taking care not to leave uncovered areas.

- Glue: spread a quick-drying white glue on the object.

2) Resin not completely hardened after the suggested time

In this case it can be anything from a light gooey to an epic disaster.

When we see that the resin is not yet dry after the suggested time has elapsed, we tend to panic immediately. This symptom does not always have to be synonymous with concern as resins are highly susceptible to climatic conditions and a delay in drying is completely understandable if we work in cold places or with unsuitable humidity levels.

If after a long time the resin is still not dry it is time to worry! In this case the problem could derive from an incorrect weighing of the components or their inadequate mixing.

SOLUTIONS:

Carefully follow the instructions on the label or leaflets that are provided. Make sure you mix the right amount of quantity and hardener respecting the ratio indicated.

Measure accurately the quantities of the components and do not add more or less hardener. Although it is a very popular technique on other blogs, tutorials or youtube videos, we never suggest using bottle caps as a weighing medium, use a precision balance for weighing components.

Make sure that all equipment you use is dry and clean.

Store the resin in a controlled temperature environment. Sudden changes in temperature can generate condensation inside the cans, compromising the performance of the product. Never store jars in cold places.

If your items feel slightly sticky, you can try smoothing them and coating them with more resin. On the other hand, if the casting is very soft or not hardened there is hardly a way to save the creation. You can try to take the resin out of the mold and clean with alcohol or acetone to remove any traces of resin. Alternatively, to clean the mold from resin residues, you can make a new casting in the hope that once the solid object is unmolded the mold will come back perfectly clean.

3) Crystallization of the resin and density

During the winter the resin can be affected by low temperatures. In particular, component A is the most sensitive and subject to physical changes visible to the eye.

A very common first change is the reduction of the fluidity of the compound. A not very fluid "part A" makes mixing difficult and can lead to incorrect catalysis (uncured parts, slowing down of drying times, etc.). Furthermore, a very dense resin does not favor the escape of air bubbles and the casting will be full of bubbles and often even of large dimensions.

The second problem that can frequently be encountered during cold periods is what is referred to as crystallization of the resin. It is possible to find this effect through the change in the hue of clarity of compound A which will be more or less opalescent.

SOLUTIONS:

The resolution of both problems is found in the heat. The thermal effect (about 30 ° C) is able to fluidize component A and eliminate crystallization.

The methods to be used are different: proximity to a heat source such as a radiator or heat pump, incubator, oven, bain-marie.

To eliminate crystallization, component A can also be placed in a microwave oven for 10 seconds. In this case it will not be possible to insert the tin can inside the oven, but the process must be carried out in a suitable container.

In all other methods the recommended temperature is around 30-35 ° C for the necessary length of time. We do not recommend using equipment suitable for food use.

4) Resin full of bubbles

This problem can occur when the resin reacts with embedded objects. Whether they are porous, natural objects (flowers, stems, etc.) or vintage papers, it makes no difference.

There are many other reasons that lead to the formation of bubbles in the resin. The main one is the density of the resin, in fact, when the temperatures start to drop the resin is less and less fluid and this prevents the easy exit of the bubbles.

SOLUTIONS:

Coat the objects with the appropriate techniques before incorporating them into the resin. As for natural objects, make the correct course of treatment in advance.

Make sure the resin is fluid before mixing it. To increase the fluidity of the resin, just leave the bottles in places with higher temperatures (for example near a stove or a radiator) or put the bottles in a bain-marie (using pots that will not be used for food) at a maximum temperature of 30 degrees for 5-10 minutes before using them. Make sure the bottles are dry before using them to avoid contamination of the resin with water.

If you are trying some new dyes do a little test first to make sure there will be no unwanted reactions.

5) The resin sticks to the mold

It may happen that the completely hardened resin sticks perfectly to the mold and there is no way to unmold the creation. When this problem occurs, the fault is not always attributable to the resin, but in some cases it depends on the mold itself.

SOLUTIONS:

First of all we always recommend the use of a release agent even when silicone molds are used. We must strive to have the good habit of using release products as they facilitate demoulding and prolong the life of the mold over time.

That said if the resin is stuck to your reusable plastic mold, you can try placing it in the freezer for 1-2 minutes. Remove the mold from the freezer and tap it on a hard surface to see if the resin comes out somehow. If the resin does not come out you can try putting it back in the freezer for a few more minutes and proceed again. Usually if after a total of 10 minutes of freezing the resin has not detached from the mold, it is unlikely that it will come out.

If the resin has bonded to your silicone mold there is hardly a way to get it out. We have commonly found that this problem occurs due to the mold and in the event that resin is poured into a recently made mold. The curing of the silicone mold is a process of fundamental importance that must be patiently followed. Even when the mold seems to be perfectly dry to the touch, in reality the rubber inside may not be perfectly hardened and this leads to the formation of a reaction with the resin. We therefore recommend using the silicone rubber mold only after 2-3 days from its creation.

6) The resin heats up and hardens in a short time

During the chemical reaction process between resin and hardener, heat is always generated naturally. Sometimes this heat can be excessive and causes the compound to catalyze rapidly.

If the resin generates "smoke" this may be due to the too high temperature generated by the reaction.

SOLUTIONS:

Mix the right amount of resin and hardener respecting the suggested ratio and without exceeding the quantities of hardener.

Use equipment suitable for mixing. Old plastic or styrofoam bottles or containers may contain chemicals on the surface that by reacting accelerate the process between resin and hardener.

Do not mix large quantities of product at once. In addition to having a fast catalysis, there will be a strong thermal reaction which can be very dangerous.

Standard epoxy resins (generally with ratios 100: 60) must never be used in large quantities, left concentrated in mass for a long time and the castings must never exceed 2.5cm in thickness for each single cast. For very thick castings in a single solution, other types of low exothermic resins must be used, such as our Diamond TL.

Summary
Some of the problems I mentioned above are inevitable characteristics of any type of resin. For example point 1 which depends on some categories of objects that are not correctly treated before being incorporated. We cannot expect that a raw sheet of paper inserted inside a resin (liquid product) does not begin to absorb the product!

Or point 3, as regards crystallization, which is an essential characteristic of all epoxy-based resins. Certainly there are formulations that have a better resistance to low temperatures, but in general the "resin part" in all traditional epoxy-based products tends to crystallize if left for long periods in places with low temperatures. Fortunately, nothing to worry about since it is only a temporary state of density and opacification of the resin, nothing that a little heat cannot solve :).

Problems that may arise in the resin, such as partial catalysis, are almost attributable to poor mixing of the resin and therefore the problem does not derive from the product but is the result of a human "error". Any formulation that is resin or silicone rubber works in bulk, that is, if the product works it reacts all or if it does not work it does not react at all. There cannot exist inside a jar part of a component that works and part doesn't.

In other more complex formulations, such as polyurethane resins, which are formed by a mixture of a multiplicity of raw materials, if the bottles are not shaken well before each use, problems can arise deriving from the division and sedimentation of raw materials or from the formation of moisture inside the bottle. However, the product should still carry out the chemical reaction and harden completely.

Many other problems that can arise are instead the result of the characteristics of the epoxy resin. Many times we cannot even define them as real problems, but only a wrong choice of the type of product in relation to the processing that we have to carry out. If our goal is to make a very thick casting (greater than 2-5 cm) in a single solution, we cannot choose a traditional epoxy resin as it has a high exothermic reaction (consequences: overheating of the resin, drying too fast, etc. ). In these cases, the right product would be a low exothermic resin with slower drying that allows you to make greater thicknesses in a single casting.

IMPORTANT: Before moving on to the operation of a project it is therefore essential to know very well the characteristics of the products we use so that we can make the best choice for the work we have to carry out. There is no universal product that works for everything, but there is a product with the characteristics suitable for the processing we have to carry out.

Our transparent Magic Cristal resin has excellent resistance to low temperatures, excellent mechanical and scratch resistance and a low viscosity that facilitates the escape of air bubbles and also allows the creation of very thin objects. Formulated with the addition of additives that act as a UV filter to reduce yellowing as much as possible over time. Magic Cristal is a versatile resin with which it is possible to make objects, artifacts, bijoux, jewelry, DIY and much more (even walkable objects!). It can be left neutral or colored with color pastes, powder pigments, SET ORION pigments or alcohol colors.

Have you had any other problems with the resin? Do you have any other tips to remedy these problems? Was this article helpful? Let us know by leaving a comment below.